The Truth about Riding an Elephant in Thailand (& an ethical alternative)

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Babies are taken from their mothers when they are only a few years old. They are put in small cages with their feet, torso, and head tied with ropes or chains, making it impossible for them to move. Their limbs are stretched and their bodies beaten repeatedly, their heads stabbed and their ears tugged with bullhooks. They are deprived of sleep, food, and water, and relentlessly screamed and yelled at.

This process, called Phajaan, is the ugly truth behind elephant rides in Thailand (or any other Asian country). The Phajaan can take up to several weeks – several weeks of physical and psychological torture. The goal is to break the elephants’ body and soul, to break their spirit and make them submissive to humans. Eventually, the purpose is achieved and the baby elephant “released” from the cage by the mahout, its trainer. It will then spend the rest of its life in captivity for human entertainment and profit, performing in shows and circus, used in elephant trekking, logging or street begging.

We learn about this barbaric ritual inflicted on Asian elephants on our way to Elephant Nature Park. The video shown on the mini-bus is short but powerful. The images shocking. I knew elephants used in the tourism industry were abused, but I couldn’t imagine how badly.

It takes us almost one hour to get to the park, located 60 km north of Chiang Mai. Along the way, we cross paths with groups of tourists ticking just another item off their travel bucket list: riding an elephant in Thailand. There are children and adults, friends and families, all of them apparently oblivious to the truth behind elephant tourism.

“You are here today to be educated”, says our guide. Elephant Nature Park is a sanctuary for rescued elephants and other endangered species. It is also home to the Save Elephant Foundation, a non-profit organization dedicated to protecting Asian elephants.

The Asian elephant is an endangered species, with an estimated population of less than 30,000 in the whole world. In Thailand, there are 3,000 to 4,000 elephants, half of which in captivity.

Through different projects in Thailand and Cambodia, the Save Elephant Foundation aims to provide care and assistance to Thailand’s captive elephant population, educate local communities, and raise global awareness for the Asian elephant cause. Its work has been recognized worldwide and its founder, Sangduen “Lek” Chailert, named one of Time Magazine’s Heroes of Asia in 2005.

Our day at Elephant Nature Park

We arrive at Elephant Nature Park early in the morning. About 70 elephants roam freely in the park, after being rescued and brought here to heal. Each one of them has a history of suffering and abuse to tell, and many of them severe injuries to prove it. But now they can finally rest.

We’re introduced to Mae Sri Nuan, Dok Ngern Faa Sai and Dok Mai, a baby elephant born at the park. They walk together and align at the platform for feeding time. We give them big chunks of food that they hold in their trunks and swallow in no time. Some are picky and reject everything but the sweet pineapples.

Afterwards, we go for a walk through the park to meet other beautiful giants, listen to their stories, interact and take some pictures with them.

“We buy the elephants, so they can stop working, and then bring them to the park. We have no elephant riding here, no elephant shows and no elephant work. This is their last home, an elephant haven where they’ll spend the rest of their lives”, explains our guide, a volunteer at the Save Elephant Foundation.

At lunch, all visitors gather at the park’s restaurant for a delicious vegetarian buffet.

In the afternoon, it’s time for another walk through the park. This time we head to the river to bathe the elephants. Unfortunately, the waters are too high today and it’s not safe to go inside, so we just watch from the bank of the river while some of the elephants bathe themselves and play in the water.

The day ends with a visit to the dog shelter. Elephant Nature Park is also home to more than 400 rescued dogs, many of them saved from the illegal dog meat trade in neighboring countries.

At the end of such an emotional day, my heart is filled with sadness, but also joy, love, and hope. The amazing work being done by the Save Elephant Foundation and the people visiting and volunteering at Elephant Nature Park and their other projects every day are the proof that change is possible, that tourism doesn’t need to equal suffering, and that travelers can help turn the world into a better place.

How you can help

Want to be part of the change? Here are some ways to help save the Asian elephants:

Visit Elephant Nature Park or its other projects in Thailand and Cambodia

The Save Elephant Foundation is a non-profit organization, which means all the money visitors pay goes directly to help rescue, feed and treat the elephants.

Volunteer

Volunteer with the Save Elephant Foundation and directly help the animals and local communities.

Sponsor an elephant

Learn more about sponsoring an elephant here.

Donate

Donate to the Save Elephant Foundation here.

Spread awareness

Educate yourself and help raise awareness about the urgent plight of Asian elephants and the truth behind elephant tourism.

Be a conscious traveler

Don’t support elephant tourism: don’t ride elephants in Thailand or any other country, don’t watch elephant shows, and don’t buy paintings made by elephants. Learn about the impact of your choices as a traveler, and help protect the local communities, the animals, and the environment.

Have you ever visited an elephant sanctuary? How was your experience? Share in the comments section below.

• Check out more things to do in Chiang Mai here
• Read my Thailand 2 week itinerary for 1st timers here
• Read my Bangkok 4 day itinerary here
• Find out what to do in Koh Samui here

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